最有文化的中餐拉面- Biang Biang麵

2021-09-21 19:29  来源: 中餐通讯编

在中国各地街头小吃中,最特别的就是陕西省的招牌Biang Biang面。这个面口感十足,更是因它特有的名字而出名。这个面的名字Biang是一个非常复杂的汉字,至今字典里都没有收入,甚至没有办法用输入法打出来。这里我们只能选择上图了。

Biang

Biang这个字太过于复杂了,为了好记陕西有一首歌谣:“一点戳上天,黄河两头弯。八字大张口,言官朝上走。你一扭,我一扭,一下扭了六点六。左一长,右一长,中间夹了个马大王。心字底,月字旁,拴钩搭挂麻糖。推着车车走咸阳。”不过小编觉得就算会唱了这个字也确实不好写。

关于BiangBiang面的起源有不少传说典故,其中最著名的有两种。第一种说法是这个名字源于伙夫手工摔打又长又宽又厚的裤袋面,面条与面板撞击发出 “Biang, Biang”的声音。另有一说“Biang的汉字”出于秦始皇。传说始皇帝某日厌倦了山珍海味,对着满桌珍馐毫无食欲,急坏了皇宫上下。有个太监急中生智去街边买了biangbiang面,不料始皇帝倒是胃口大开,吃完后惊赞:“这是何物,味美上口。”太监回答:BiangBiang面。始皇帝觉得既然这算是 “御用”食物,那就得御赐一个字形复杂的名,有意令平民难以写出此字。

BianBiang

BiangBiang 面通常选用手工拉长宽厚的面条,所以也称作裤带面。配上各色臊子,以及大葱,大蒜,韭菜,香菜,四川花椒,小茴香和辣椒,再来上一勺油泼辣子,立马辣香扑面而来。听说吃BiangBiang面要蹲着才有那个味!


纽约时报中文网曾在16年刊文《西安美食:一种名字写不出来的中式面食》,详细报道西安名吃师傅制作BiangBiang面全过程。令人惋惜的是西安名吃的Biang分店在17年休业了,希望我们在未来能看到Biang分店的回归。

Biang Biang面视频介绍



A Field Guide to Chinese Street Food


Biang Biang Mian

In keeping with the noodle theme I've apparently been focusing on in my street food reviews lately, here's a dish notorious not so much for its taste but for its name. Specifically, the way the name is written. Biang Biang Mian is a traditional street food in Xi'an, and it uses one of the most ridiculously complex characters in the entire Chinese language. So complex that they haven't created a unicode version of it for computers--I have to use a picture.

Be glad you don't have to sign your checks with that.

Behold the character "biang!" It has 58 separate strokes, and requires most people to use mnemonic devices to remember how to write it (if they ever bother to write it at all). This is almost certainly the most complex character you will see in modern China. Several more complex characters exist, but they are archaic and virtually never seen. Biang, on the other hand, graces the signs on Xi'an store fronts selling Biang Biang Mian.


Nobody is really sure what the origin of this word is, but there are lots of fun folk etymologies floating around out there.

All right, enough about the name, the real question is how does it taste? For a food with such a ridiculously complicated name, it's actually very simple ingredient-wise.


The noodles are long and very wide (some people liken them to belts). They are served swimming in a chili-red oily soup with some mutton and chives. Like many spicy foods in China, the chili here is considered to keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer (due to the sweat). On a scale of 1 - 10, I would say the spice is no greater than a 6 or so, so if you don't get along with spicy foods, this might work for you.

The verdict? Simple, tasty, and filling. Great for lunch or dinner on a cold winter's day in Xi'an.



Editor-in-Chief: Betty Xie Executive Editor 编委 : Guanwen Lee(李冠文) 美食评论家: Vincent Xia

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